Land Rover Defender Classic, Discovery 1/2 & Range Rover Classic/P38 Hubcentric Wheel Spacers – 5×165.1 PCD, 114.3mm Bore | UK Made | Brightstone Engineering

Check your bolts before fitting

This kit is supplied without bolts, and vehicles vary by model year, market, trim and previous modifications — we can’t see what is fitted to your car. It is the responsibility of the buyer and whoever fits these parts to check every bolt against the car before use. Do not fit any bolt you have not checked.

1. Measure a bolt from your car.Remove one of your existing wheel bolts and measure its thread length, thread size and pitch, and check its seat type (the shape under the head — see step 2). Measure the threaded part only — from where the thread starts to the tip, not including the head. The threaded part of the new bolt must be longer than this by the thickness of the spacer you’ve bought: for example, a bolt with 28mm of thread used with a 20mm spacer needs a bolt with 48mm of thread.
2. Compare it with the bolts you’ll fit.Thread size, pitch, seat type and head must match your original bolt exactly. What is the seat? It’s the shape of the underside of the bolt head — the part that presses against your wheel. It’s usually either cone-shaped (called “conical” or “60° taper”) or rounded (called “ball” or “radius”). It must match the shape of the bolt holes in your wheel: the wrong shape only touches the wheel on a thin edge and can work loose. Simple check: hold your old bolt next to the new one — the underside of the heads should be the same shape.
3. Check the extra length matches your spacer.The threaded part of the new bolt must be longer than the threaded part of your original by the thickness of the spacer you’ve bought — for example, a 20mm spacer needs a bolt 20mm longer. If you’ve bought different thicknesses for front and rear, keep each bolt set with its own spacers.
4. Confirm full thread engagement.Once fitted, each bolt must engage the hub by at least as much thread as your original bolt did without a spacer — never less — without bottoming out or fouling anything behind the hub. What is thread engagement? It’s how much of the bolt’s thread is actually screwed into the hub — this is what holds your wheel on. Simple check: when you take out an original bolt, count how many full turns it takes to come out once it’s loose. After fitting, each new bolt must take at least that many full turns to screw in by hand before its head reaches the wheel. Fewer turns means less thread holding the wheel on — do not drive the car. If a bolt stops turning before its head reaches the wheel, it may be too long or cross-threaded — don’t force it. Once every bolt is in, tighten them to your vehicle manufacturer’s specified torque setting using a torque wrench — check your owner’s handbook or a main dealer for the correct figure for your car.
5. If anything doesn’t match, don’t fit it.Contact us with photos and measurements before fitting and we’ll sort it out.

Fitting should be done by a competent person or a professional garage. Re-check all bolts after the first 50–100 miles. Brightstone Engineering cannot accept responsibility for problems caused by fitting bolts that have not been checked against the vehicle as described above.